On a hill overlooking the busy Margao city, the courtyard of the Chapel of Nossa Senhora de Piedade awakens to a rare tradition on Good Friday morning. At 6 am, a group of men gathers for the solemn installation of the cross for the crucifixion of the Christ at midday. Parishioners of the Holy Spirit Church in the city are amongst a few to continue the outdoor Good Friday crucifixion. It falls on April 7 this year.
Good Friday in Goa
Paradoxically, the name Good Friday symbolises the death of Jesus Christ on the cross. The origins of the name remain debatable, but the day also signifies the fulfilment of God’s promise to his people. Fr. Mousinho de Ataide explains, “There is no celebration of mass, but three readings, including the Passion Narrative from the Gospel of John on that day.”
Parishes in Goa also observe another Lenten tradition, the seven passos or seven steps from Christ's suffering. Fr. Roque D’Costa says, “Some of these steps include the Agony in the Garden, Scourging at the Pillar, Crowning with thorns, Carrying the Cross, and Good Friday Crucifixion is the last one. Most Churches commemorate one of the seven steps, while some parishes mark all. Parishioners prepare a special tableau based on the theme for the week.”
The image of Christ raised for the crucifixion in front of Nossa Senhora de Piedade chapel |
The parishes of Margao in South Goa and Salvador-do-Mundo in the North continue to enact outdoor crucifixion scenes on the hillside. Margao resident Joaquim Soares, part of the Holy Spirit confraria is one of the seniors passing down the knowledge of conducting the Good Friday crucifixion to the next generation. Earlier, he recalls it was inside the Nossa Senhora de Piedade chapel. It shifted outside in the past decades. The day begins at dawn with the preparation of the cross on the hill. It’s no easy feat. “The solid wooden cross is heavy. It has two separate beams — horizontal and vertical. Both are clamped together and raised slowly with a pulley. The entire task requires a big team to put it up,” recalls Soares, who has done and overseen this process for decades.
At 11 am, the faithful gather inside the Nossa Senhora de Piedade chapel at the Monte for a short service. A brief prayer follows, and the confraria members carry the life-size statutes of Christ and Mother Mary outside on their shoulders. The eager crowds outside turn towards the procession walking out from the Chapel.
At the foot of the cross, the team moves the image of Christ closer and attaches a hook to the back of the neck. Many hands hold the body securely as it is hoisted upwards with the help of a pulley. Two men climb the ladders at either side to nail both hands to the beams. A crown of thorns adds the final piece of suffering. At three o’clock the head is lowered in keeping with the Gospel reading.
From four o’clock, depending on the Parish, Good Friday services mark the passion and suffering of Christ through the three liturgical readings. The kissing of a small cross by the public and Communion follows.
In parishes like Margao, after the service, the faithful move to the Monte for the ceremonial lowering of the crucified image at six in the evening. The task, Alison Morenas says, is as tedious as the crucifixion. Now 35, he has actively participated in the observances, first lending a helping hand to the seniors and now being one of the main participants. Looking down at thousands of people from that height is not for the faint-hearted. The precarious position requires careful handling of himself and the statue. A slight miss could send the image crashing down. “You need three people to lower the body. Last year, I held the feet since you need a tall man to catch the legs,” shares Morenas, who is 6 feet.
Nina M, who has watched the sombre presentation as a child recalls, “The entire scene moves you. It takes you straight to Calvary to the last moments of His death. It reminds us of the pain and suffering He went through.”
The lowered statue is brought to the Holy Spirit Church in a ceremonial procession by all the confrarias joined by the parishioners and faithful from all over. After the Good Friday commemorations, the image returns to its resting place under the main altar of the Church.