The Met Gala 2025 is making an extravagant return in New York on May 5, 2025. The Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art revealed the upcoming gala theme, "Superfine: Tailoring Black Style," a reflection of Black dandyism and its rich historical context. This theme is inspired by Monica L. Miller’s 2009 book, "Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity."
Understanding Black Dandyism
Black dandyism emerged as a powerful expression of identity, particularly during the Victorian era. Curator Shantrelle P. Lewis, in her book 'Dandy Lion', stated that "the dandy movement coincided with the height of the transatlantic slave trade." Enslaved Africans were often made to dress extravagantly as a reflection of their owners' status. However, these luxuriously dressed individuals transformed their imposed uniforms into personal expressions of pride and style.
Robin Givhan, in a column for The Washington Post, highlighted the modern relevance of Black dandyism. "Contemporary dandies include men such as those who gathered on 125th Street in Harlem in 2020 and marched down Fifth Avenue in a show of respect for George Floyd, to underscore their own humanity and to defy stubborn narratives about the inherent thuggery of Black men."
They wore sharp, dark suits with jackets and pants that matched the stunning plumage of a peacock. Givhan further added, "It wasn’t merely the clothes that were remarkable; it was the effort that made the powerful statement. The personal decision to dress just so was an acknowledgement that Black men held their bodies in high, loving regard, even if society too often did not."
A closer look at the exhibition
The upcoming exhibition, which accompanies the gala, will explore clothing in shaping black identity from the 18th century to today. Co-curated by Miller and the Costume Institute's head curator Andrew Bolton, this exhibition marks a historic moment as it is the museum's first dedicated to black fashion and its first focused on menswear after the "Men in Skirts" exhibition in 2003.
During the announcement, Bolton stated that the show “marks a really important step in our commitment to diversifying our exhibitions and collections, as well as redressing some of the historical biases within our curatorial practice.”
According to Miller, black men have historically used clothing as "a strategy and a tool to rethink identity; to reimagine the self in a different context; to really push a boundary, especially during the time of enslavement; and to really push a boundary on who and what counts as human, even."
Miller further explained the exhibition will “illustrate how black people transformed from being enslaved and stylised as luxury items, acquired like any other signifier of wealth and status, to autonomous self-fashioning individuals who are global trendsetters."
As the Met Gala approaches, "Superfine: Tailoring Black Style" promises to be a landmark event, not only honouring the legacy of Black dandyism but also redefining the narrative around black fashion in America.
