With the wedding season in the air, the one name that is celebrated for defining men’s fashion is fashion designer Arjun Khanna. His passion for style, intricate detailing and impeccable tailoring have cemented his position as the go-to designer for men’s fashion.
Known for his innovative approach and avant-garde aesthetics in fashion, Arjun comes with a 30-year legacy. The non-conformist in him thinks there is much more to learn. “Getting back to where it started, it took me almost 20 years to have the guts to add the word ‘couture’ to my label. Today, it is a very freely used word with every third designer using it. From the training that I came with, it is a heavy tag to put on your own label. Having the legacy only stands with a lot of trust and reliability in the fit, form and finish,” says the couturier.
He feels flattered about being relevant after three decades. “In those days, I was dressing the man, his father and grandfather. Today, I am dressing the father, his son and the grandfather. What I love is that people come and say ‘Hey, I bought this 20 years ago for my wedding, it feels lovely’. It pretty much makes it a legacy then.” He adds. “Understanding the body type is my edge. I cater to the torso and people appreciate that they’re going to be fitted.”
For Arjun, designing is like painting, where he gets emotionally connected with every piece. Sometimes, he doesn’t want to part with his designs. His designs are a testament of craftsmanship and visionary approach, and have earned him a loyal following among high profile personalities and celebrities like Aditya Roy Kapoor, Saif Ali Khan and Aamir Khan.
We met the designer at his flagship boutique, housed in a 200-year-old building in bustling Kala Ghoda, and a glorious testament to his aesthetic and design philosophy.
Excerpts from an interview
How was fashion a part of your growing up years?
As far back I can remember, my white school uniform started boring me so I started tailoring and putting small details on the shirt, with pants turned up, cuffs folded, etc. That was the beginning of my journey.
Can you shed light on your avante garde collections?
Being a men’s wear designer, I am trained as a tailor and cutter and I love that the most. It is easy to do a good looking outfit, but if you have armed it with a great cut or fit, you have won the battle. I get turned on by anything that’s unique. My first collection was the mafia collection inspired by mafia movies in Hollywood. I love military uniforms from all over the world.
What is at the heart of the Arjun Khanna label?
Design has become generic today, and I get bored with it. Today, people talk about sustainability. I have been doing sustainable fashion before it came into being. The cut that comes from my table becomes a bag, a pouch, or a cover. I also do vintage denims. So it’s not about buying expensive, but being unique. When you buy an Arjun Khanna bandhgala, there’s a uniqueness that trickles into it. Every piece from my label is unique, the logo, the thread, and no two pieces are the same.
How do you manage to stay ahead of the curve?
I follow my gut, and so far it has never cheated me in being relevant. The cross section of people I mix with is from 18-70 years. I also keep up with the latest in music, arts, Bollywood or Hollywood. I draw my inspiration from every art form – be it photography, architecture, music or art deco. India is the most colourful nation and the way people dress up inspires me – from a dababwala’s topi and dhoti to a Kanjeevarm sari to Kolkata kantha work. I could live two lifetimes and never do justice.
Can you pinpoint your favourite design?
There’s a favourite in each collection – be it The Golden Triangle or the People of Yao. I was one of the first designers on Lakme India Fashion Week with over 150 boys. My Sandstorm collection was about techniques with windblown or dust-stained faces. Another collection was the one with two designers, Shahab Durazi and I; and we got a standing ovation that brought tears into my eyes. There was one inspired by a Sherlock Holmes movie featuring Robert Downing Jr., with models impeccably dressed in retro looks with bloodshed and brandished faces.
Which celebrity have you enjoyed designing for the most?
There are many, but the most challenging one was Sir Richard Branson who came to India for the launch of Virgin Atlantic India airline. The brief given to me was that it had to be a red coloured Indian outfit and in duplicate, as he was to jump off the Oberoi Hotel right into the pool. I designed two sherwanis in red brocade with slits at the back for the harness. That was one of my greatest moments in fashion. I love dressing people like Zakir Hussain, he is so simple and dons wearable kurtas.
Besides collecting antique curios and classic bikes, what are your hobbies?
Vintage inspires me to create a story in everything I do. I am a passionate vintage collector of items like old gramophone, camera, typewriter, cycle, motorbike, car or aircraft. Although I am laughed at by friends and family who think this is kabadkhana. My other passion is restoration. For me, to get something rolling which is of an era which I was not part of, is exciting. I also love the medium of photography, and do a lot of black and white and street photography.
How do you maintain work-life balance?
There’s no balance, as designing doesn’t stop with my studio. My wife and I work together so there’s nothing like the end of work and the start of home life. It’s seamless and that’s the most beautiful part of being a designer. You don’t have to switch off and on.
