Mechanical Vs Chemical Exfoliants

Exfoliation is a skincare process that involves removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin to reveal fresher, more brighter and radiant skin underneath. This process can be done using either physical methods, such as scrubs or brushes, or chemical methods, which involve the use of acids or enzymes to dissolve dead skin cells. 

Regular exfoliation helps to improve skin texture, promote cell turnover, and enhance the absorption of skincare products. It also helps to unclog pores, reducing the likelihood of breakouts, and can brighten the complexion by removing the dull layer of dead skin. However, it's important to exfoliate appropriately for your skin type to guard against irritation, dryness, and damage to the skin's protective barrier.

Mechanical or physical 

This method removes dead skin cells from the surface of the skin using mechanical means, such as scrubs, brushes, or other textured tools. This type of exfoliation involves the physical act of rubbing or massaging the skin with an abrasive substance or device to slough off the outermost layer of dead skin cells, dirt, and impurities. Common exfoliating agents in physical scrubs include natural particles like sugar, salt, apricot shells, or synthetic microbeads (though the latter has become less common due to environmental concerns). 

Tools like exfoliating brushes, sonic peelers or silicone gloves can also be used to achieve a similar effect, often enhancing the scrubbing action. 

Over-exfoliation, or using products that are too harsh, can lead to microtears in the skin, causing irritation, redness, and even long-term damage, particularly for those with sensitive or acne-prone skin. Physical exfoliation can be particularly beneficial for areas with thicker skin, such as the elbows, knees, or feet, where dead skin tends to accumulate more readily. When done correctly, it can enhance the overall effectiveness of your skincare routine by allowing subsequent products to penetrate the skin more effectively, leading to a more radiant and healthier complexion.

Chemical exfoliation 

This is a skincare technique that uses acids, enzymes, or other active ingredients to dissolve and remove dead skin cells from the surface of the skin, promoting cell turnover and revealing a fresher, more radiant complexion. Unlike physical exfoliation, which relies on mechanical scrubbing, chemical exfoliants work by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together, allowing them to be shed more easily. 

Chemical exfoliants can be divided into several categories, such as Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs), Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs), and enzymes. The latest generation chemical exfoliants are PHA ( Poly Hydroxy Acids, a gentler and safer AHA) and LHA ( Lipo Hydroxy Acids, a safer form of BHA). PHAs like Glucono Delta Lactone are natural chemical exfoliants, similar to Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) but with larger molecular structures, which makes them gentler on the skin. Due to its larger molecular size, it penetrates the skin more slowly, making it less likely to cause irritation, which makes it an excellent choice for those with sensitive skin or conditions like rosacea. In addition to its exfoliating properties, Gluconolactone can help strengthen the skin's barrier and improve overall skin texture.

AHAs, like glycolic acid and lactic acid, are water-soluble and work primarily on the skin’s surface, making them ideal for addressing issues like dullness, uneven texture, and fine lines. BHAs, such as salicylic acid, are oil-soluble, allowing them to penetrate deeper into the pores, which makes them particularly effective for treating acne and controlling excess oil. 

Enzymes, often derived from fruits like papaya or pineapple, provide a gentler exfoliation option, suitable for sensitive skin types. 

One of the key benefits of chemical exfoliation is its ability to improve a wide range of skin concerns, from acne and hyperpigmentation to signs of aging, without the risk of microtears that can occur with physical exfoliation. However, it's important to use chemical exfoliants with care, as overuse or using products with high concentrations can lead to irritation, redness, and increased sensitivity, especially for those new to these types of products. 

New trend

The latest exfoliating technique is using a hi-tech combination of Physical and Chemical Exfoliants like a gentle scrub with AHAs and/or PHAs which have a two-fold action on the skin leading to much better results. Ingredients like Vitamin C and other hydrating ingredients are added to the exfoliants for added safety and efficacy. Vitamin C lightens, firms the skin and also nourishes the skin with its antioxidant properties while hydrating ingredients like humectants and emollients prevent the skin from dryness and also maintain the skin’s barrier function. This exfoliating technique is suitable for all skin types including sensitive skin and is therefore a hot trend in current professional and retail skin care. 

Skin type matters

The choice between mechanical and chemical exfoliation depends on your skin type and its specific needs. 

Oily skin: Oily skin tends to have larger pores, excess sebum secretion and a higher likelihood of clogged pores and acne. Chemical exfoliants like Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs), (salicylic acid), are oil-soluble and can penetrate deeper into the pores, effectively exfoliating the inside of the pores and helping to clear out excess oil and debris. This helps in reducing breakouts and controlling oil production without the risk of physically irritating the skin. Mechanical Exfoliation like scrubs with gentle exfoliating ingredients like Perlite are great for localized application on areas like nose and chin for effective removal of blackheads and whiteheads. 

Dry skin: Dry skin often has a build-up of dead skin cells that can make the skin look dull and flaky. It also tends to age faster due to lack of lipids and moisture. 

Chemical exfoliants like Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) (glycolic or lactic acid), gently dissolve these dead skin cells and improve skin texture, enhancing hydration by allowing moisturisers to penetrate better. AHAs like lactic acid also have humectant properties, meaning they help retain moisture in the skin, which is beneficial for dry skin. AHAs due to their penetrating action, apart from removing dead skin, also increases cell turnover for a more youthful appearance. 

Mechanical Exfoliation with gentle scrubs in a cream base can be used at home twice weekly for sloughing off superficial dead skin to reveal brighter, youthful skin. 

Combination skin: Combination skin has areas that are oily (usually the T-zone) and areas that are dry or normal. These skin types can benefit from physical and chemical exfoliation as it is dry and oily and alternating between the two would work well. 

Sensitive skin: Sensitive skin is prone to irritation, redness, and reactions. Gentle chemical exfoliants, such as lactic acid (a milder AHA) or enzyme-based exfoliants, are less likely to cause irritation compared to physical exfoliation. These ingredients can gently remove dead skin cells without the friction and potential damage that physical exfoliants might cause.

Tips for effective exfoliation

Do not over-exfoliate: Stick to exfoliating once or twice per week depending on your skin type and the strength of the exfoliant.

Moisturise after Exfoliation: Hydrate, hydrate, hydrate. Exfoliation removes dead skin by also removing the lipids and moisture from the skin, making it more prone to dryness, so follow up with a good moisturiser.

Start slow: If you’re new to chemical exfoliants, start with a lower concentration and gradually increase as your skin builds tolerance. This helps your skin to adjust.

Patch test: Always do a patch test on a small area of skin, preferably on the back of the neck, before using a chemical exfoliant on your face. This helps to ensure you don’t have an adverse reaction to the product.

Be cautious: Always avoid the eye contour area as the skin there is very thing and delicate

Sunscreen: Use sunscreen daily to protect your skin from UV damage as exfoliation can make your skin more sensitive to the sun. 

Be Patient: Exfoliation works gradually and give your skin time to show improvement

Listen to your skin: If your skin becomes red, irritated, or overly dry, reduce the frequency of use or switch to a gentler formula. 

Oscar Pereira is Founder of Code Skin

Published on: Sunday, September 29, 2024, 02:25 PM IST